Two days in Colombo, without rushing

Many travellers see Colombo as little more than a stop on the way from the airport. Two days will show you that there is much more to the city, as long as you do not try to see everything. Here is the order we recommend.

Day one, morning

Start early at Gangaramaya Temple. It opens at first light, and it is much calmer at seven in the morning than at eleven. Cover your shoulders and knees, remove your shoes, and allow an hour rather than twenty minutes. Beira Lake is next to the temple, and the Seema Malaka temple stands on the water. It is one of the most photographed views in Colombo, and it is worth the photograph.

Then explore Fort on foot. The highlight is the Dutch Hospital, a restored seventeenth-century building with shops and restaurants along both sides. The old lighthouse clock tower is five minutes away.

Day one, afternoon

Visit Pettah if you still have the energy. It is the wholesale market district: loud, crowded and full of everyday Colombo life, which is what makes it so interesting. The Red Mosque is its best-known landmark. Go before three, drink plenty of water, and enjoy the atmosphere rather than looking for anything in particular.

Then return to the hotel, swim for an hour and get ready for the evening.

Day one, evening

Go to Galle Face Green at half past five. It is a kilometre of grass beside the sea, with food stalls along its length and families out walking. Try isso wade from one of the stalls. Stay for the sunset over the Indian Ocean, which comes quickly.

Day two

Spend the morning at Independence Square, a memorial surrounded by some of the most pleasant walking paths in the city. Next door, Arcade Independence Square offers coffee and air conditioning. The National Museum is a short ride away and is better than it looks from outside: the Kandyan royal regalia alone are worth the entrance fee.

Keep the afternoon slow. Enjoy an hour of Balinese massage, a swim, or a long lunch. Colombo is very hot in the middle of the afternoon, and this is the best time to be indoors. Visitors who try to sightsee through the heat often leave with a poor impression of the city.

End the day on a rooftop, with the city lights below you. There are several in Colombo 3, including ours.

Practical notes

Tuk-tuks are everywhere; use a metered tuk-tuk or a ride app rather than agreeing a price. Sundays are quiet. Poya days, the monthly full moon holidays, are quieter still, and no alcohol is served in Sri Lanka on those days, so there is no happy hour. Dress modestly for temples and carry water with you. Avoid booking anything for the early afternoon, when the heat is at its strongest.

We are at 32 Alfred House Avenue in Colombo 3, a few minutes from most of these places. The rooms are here.